DISCONTINUED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.
Thanks and Happy New Year

A passage to North America

9th of December, 1797

Dearest friends,
it is with pen in hand and my affairs in order with the Bank of England, that I await passage aboard the American Bark, The Concord, embarking here at Portsmouth in 2 weeks time. I have not been aboard a vessel of this berthen for some years. The Concord is a stout vessel and well crewed with diverse seamen and captained by a loud talking New Hampshire man. I am assured we should make landfall in Halifax by the last week of February. It will seem roomy compared to the gun decks of the HMS Charon and I have my own cabin with accommodation paid for by the Honorable Company as condition of enlistment.

For now, I am lodged dockside at an Inn made familiar to me during the American War. “The Oxcart” sounds not unlike the habitation of a razor grinder, but I assure you it is well afforded and I have taken a private room here. I have known the landlord for a decade, a jovial man of wit and mirth who has his family about him.

Whilst I await departure I have taken pains and with great forethought and contracted a barrister, Mr. Peter Taliaferro of Taliaferro, Whattam, and Cleeves of Portsmouth, who has made arrangement for my family to travel to Halifax in the spring. Of greater import I have retained him to lay down with pen, thrice copies of my Last Will and Testament. God preserve my christian soul if I should not return and what monies I have laid by through my labor, for the preservation of M'lady and child, be relinquished to their maintenance.

My home at West Riding, Yorkshire will be shut for the duration of my endeavor. I am assured by the Honorable Company, which I shall have upon arrival, my agreement of service and other papers. I have been guaranteed a wage of £ 250 per anum sterling, a tidy sum for a new trader, of which I have been advanced £15 for to equip myself.

Preparing to go into the wilds of North America is an endeavor that encompasses many details of the most intricate nature. One must have the proper clothing to ensure health and a fit constitution. Two sets in the reserve is the least required,in addition to a well made chest to hold all of your valuables. My reserve clothing detailed here will be baled in an oilskin and hide block, not unlike, as I have been informed, as they do in shipping furs.

The seemingly small wooden trunk that will sustain my voyage and beyond, must be well fitted with iron hinges and weather tight to withstand the rigors of shipment and well marked with my cartouche. My previously mentioned reserves, will remain until required, as I will be taxed by the Honorable Company for any supercargo on any canoe voyages I will endure. Thus, I shall send for my bale of goods once established at a post.

The bale contains the most sturdy clothing I could have tailored for the journey that would still observe the propriety of my station. The bales contents are as follows:
1 hunter frock of the best worsted lined in serge
1 pair of leathern breeches
2 swansdown waistcoats with yellow metal buttons
1 pr of Hessians of the best leather black
1 pr of pumps
3 pr woolen hose
1 heavy worsted fawn jacket
3 fine shirts
1 oilskin
Aboard The Concord I will have the following items in my chest at my disposal housed in my resilient green chest not to mention my satchel, spadroon, boat cloak and stick in excess of my clothing already upon my person. My possesions aboard ship are as follows:
2 shirts, linen
2 white cravats, one of silk, one of nankeen.
1 pr woolen hose
1pr thread ditto
1 sad swansdown waistcoat
1 pair spectacles
1 quizzing glass and japanned case
1 pr sad serge breeches
1 pr spatterdashers, well tarred
1 Monmouth cap
1 pr woolen gloves
1 pr brown kid ditto
1 calico banyan
1 cap
1 flannel vest
1 set of brushes
1 men’s toilet set, well affixed in a leather case
2 straight razors
2 bottles Rum Negrita
1 tin, blackball
3 handkerchiefs
1 pistol, screw barrel, 38 bore
1 flask of pistol powder and flints
1 pouch containing 32 pistol shot
1 strike light with tinder stuffs in box
18 tallow candles
2 blank Journals
1 ream of laid common paper
Wax and seal
Instruments and chagreened case
1 packet of cards
Miniatures of Lady Simpson and Ms. Sophia Armstrong
Letters of Introduction from colleagues

Books, each a singular copy:
Bible
William Shakespeare
Present State of Commerce amongst the Indians of Canada
Lurid Tales of Ribaldry by Folsom
Bothell’s Common Geography of the Americas
Habitants of Upper Canada

You may take note that I have not taken along fuke or folwing piece with me or even a cased set of horse pistols. This may seem daft, but indeed I have been told on high authority, that it is best to wait until I arrive in Upper Canada before selecting a gun and accoutrements necessary for maintenance amongst the savages. It is said that the Honorable Company does a brisk trade in Fukes made by Birmingham manufactories.

It approaches a late hour and my candle is low burning upon the sconce. I will write again and send when possible correspondence by packet, should we encounter one on the voyage to Nova Scotia.

I remain your humble servant and friend,
Lt Wm. Armstrong

Towards the wilderness I shall go...

Dear Friends,

Soon I will return here to my pen after a long absence. I await word of a new venture with the “Honorable Company”as to my new post in North America. From here, I will dispatch my tales and my delvings into the recesses of Upper Canada and the lands yet unclaimed beyond the “Stony Mountains.”

I am abandoning the original topic of this blog as I feel there are those who more proficiently discuss the goings on of “polite society” and “fashion” at home. I, being from the country and somewhat idle have decided to leave the Earls, Duchesses, and Knights of my home and seek an enlistment that will do service to my country and name. Indeed, a clime and geography that is better suited to my middling and country nature.

From time to time, I will share my exploits; my dealings with habitants, red- natives, and matters regarding my work as a “gentleman trader” in the farthest reach of the Pacific Northwest. It is my hope that those who read this will be able to appreciate that the civilization of the era in which we live (1790-1820) was extended by gentlemen such as myself to wilderness of the Columbia River and beyond.

For those friends I will leave at home, it is my hope that my efforts amongst the Candiens and Savages of the Interior of North America will be documented somehow so that if I should perish, I will preserve some remembrance of my deeds.

In short everyone, I am changing the topic. Lady Simpson and I will still be dancing and doing regency and Georgian stuff. I will simply be using a new historical filter on this blog of ENGLISH GEORGIAN EXPLORERS and others in the early west. I hope you enjoy my semi-fictional accounts and wilderness explorations as a Regency Gentleman in the Pacific Northwest and the Stony Mountains. ~Lt. A

A Suit of the Most Exquisite Clothes PART Ye SECOND...

At around 6 years of age all little boys were taken from their toddler gowns, which resembled that of their female counterparts and placed for the first time in breeches. It would have been symbolic of the little boy transitioning from his mother or governess’ influence of female oversight, into a male dominated world of the father. Breeches then are the fashionable leg coverings of the well dressed Georgian man and another mark of manliness(see the above images). Alas, I have seen many pairs of misfit breeches.

These are further complimented by a covering to the shirt (Shirts are effectively the underwear of the man) called a "waistcoat" and I have seen and purchased myelf, poor examples of these. The most important characteristic of these is their fit, regardless of your own personal historic leanings towards authenticity. The patterns' seams dictate this fit and the resulting archetecture of each garment.

To examine the fit of the breeches, one must understand the underlying fashion motivation for their cut. In the 18th and early 19th Century the leg and the chest/abdomen were the focal points of a gentleman’s correct fashion silhouette.

In the period, the classic convention is to accentuate the calves and the “breast” or the area from the sternum to the waist. The silhouette was further enhanced by sloping shoulders, slim non-muscular arms and a narrow back. The garments’ seams are the architecture which creates this very specific fit and cause the correct "hang" of the garments as much as material choice.

For breeches in the last third of the 18th century and the dawn of the 19th, the pattern almost always composes a set of leg coverings with “splayed legs” and a “diaper” like seat. The cut of the seat is important. Because it allows for movement and stooping in daily activities of the wearer. As more refined “stretchy” cottons and woolen fabrics were used late century, more was taken out of the seat and the cut became less full in the seat. Many breeches were made out of fine leather hiddes and considered the "blue jeans" of the period.

Complimenting the fit of the breeches and arguably its’ partner in Georgian fashion, is the waistcoat. Often pronounced “westcot” or “waistcot.” It was to be considered undressed for a man to forgo his waistcoat in public. Like the breeches, I have seen many lose necked, blousy fitting waistcoats. Classically a waistcoat should be moderately snug to tight, but not “baggy” or ill fitting.

The material of the most desirable fashion was used for the front face of the waistcoat, with the back being of something less desirable allowing the wearer to spend as much as they could afford on the portion of the garment exposed by the frock coat.

The cut of the frock was designed to accentuate a “birds breast” silhouette, not unlike a strutting pigeon, where the front 2/3 of the man’s torso was exposed accentuating the belly. As fashion changed in the late century, the closure at the front of the frock allowed for less of the bird breast affect and more of the abdomen and waist to be exposed.

Materials for these are important choices for the enthusiast. I have seen many as of late making their appearance in silks. While a choice of the wealthy, no self-respecting Englishmen would neglect fine woolens and as the century waned, fine cottons or even mixtures of both or with silk and linen fibers, fabrics such as these could be found in wardrobes across Britain.

England was proud of their wool industry and prideful and patriotic through most of the century. Arguably, a proud patriot of THE CROWN would have worn superfine English wool, which reproduced today would easily outpace the price of many silks I have seen of late. Yet, such us the price of "fashion."

So how should these garments fit a fashionable young gentleman of the period? I will answer by era:

1770-90: The waistcoat should have a fine front fabric of a medium weight and may or may not match the breeches or entire suit. The front should be cut away and expose the breeches fall and waist. The fancier waistcoats are embroidered and by the mid-80’s started to be shorter waisted. Most all waistcoats of this period have no collar until the very late 80’s. By the 80’s the transition from pocket flaps to welted pockets had fully begun as the front cut away tails rose and were deleted by the tailor. The frock accentuates a “birds-breast” silhouette.

The Breeches are well fitting and slightly baggy at the knee to very snug. The seat is baggy to allow for movement but cut less tight as the decades’ progress. The fit is comfortable yet snug with a narrow fall front. They button close at the knee and are held tight just below the knee cap typically with a buckle, but can also button or tie closed.

1790-1810: The waistcoat hemline is now just below the waist, except on older gentlemen. The high close fitting collar is the fashion, set back from the front opening at the neckline about ½”. The collar is cut high enough to support the cravat, stock and high collar of the shirt. Figured fabrics, embroidered silks, and light woolens are all the rage. Stripes are popular.

Breeches become longer reaching a hands breadth or so beyond the knee and now long tight fitting trousers called “pantaloons” are taking over for the most fashionable. These continue to be tight and cut from fine fabrics with a narrow fall front.

Attaining this look is simple; STOP watching movies and do some quality research! We all love historic costume dramas for INSPIRATION, but spend time looking at museum catalogs and collections. There are many fine 18th century costume books that discuss what I have encapsulated here in much greater detail. Also find GOOD patterns and artisans who use them. Take the time to make a test of the pattern out of muslin OR have your craftsperson do so. It’s worth the extra cash in the long run.

I hope this proves helpful and saves you many guineas of waste, buying crappy garments or picking at dismally poor patterns at a chain fabric store. Next time I will discuss coats, also know as “Frocks” and then accessories of the gentleman.

Adventures In the Southern Colonies

Hello all once again,

My apologies for not writting in so long. I have been away for a "short visit" to the colonies of North Carolina and Virginia. After many hours of travel we arrived in the old capitol of New Bern, North Carolina. I had business there investigating the re-establishment of my residence there near Governor Tryon's Palace.

Let me state friends that the environs there are so different. Hardwoods and marshes everywhere and a propencity of squirrels. The rivers are broad and calm. The colony unlike Virginia and South Carolina, was established as a source of naval stores for His Majesty's Navy. The colony is known for its' tradesmen who fell trees and boil tar from the large pines there. These fellows are known as "tar heels".

Also different is there is no right of the first born son, "prima geneator", as in Britian and in other colonies. Therefore, the typical plantation houses of other royal colonies are much reduced in size as the assets are divided between all the siblings.

I hoped to have an audience with Lord Tryon, yet alas I was only able to meet his house servants. One most delightful the Laundry Maid, Mrs. Laycock was quite captivating. I also met some of the other servants.

From there after a few days stay we headed north once more to Virginia. During our travels, we noticed that the habitants do not take coffee or tea as do we. That is to say there are few coffeehouses. How is one to get news about the world if not for the common room of the local coffeeehouse?

I took Ms.Sophia and Lady Simpson to Williamsburg. This is the capitol city of Virginia. We had the pleasure of visiting many old friends, including my patroness Mrs. Thomas who was attending a school on dressmaking at the capitol. We supped together at Chowning's Tavern, whos' warm inviting tavern allowed us shelter and enterainments during the now chilly weather. Beef, Brunswick stew, and peanut pie filled our stomachs as the roving musicians and a quite amusing magician.

I was able to briefly visit with my close friend once Colonel, now General Washington. He was well if not challenged by the duty of the marshaling of his army. He and his French Aid-de-camp, Mssr. Laffayette addressed the crowd before proceding to Yorktown, where Lord Cornwallis is awaiting him and relief from His Majesty's Navy. I could hardly converse with him as he is very popular with his countrymen, especially children. He rides a fine white horse and cuts a noble figure.

Before heading for home we were able to visit a new Coffeehouse run by Mr. Charleton. it was well furnished and quite busy. We met Mrs. Charleton who treated us to the best cup of Chocolate I have had in ahwile. It was rich and spiced with guinea pepper and cinnamon.

It is good to be home and snug in our cottage as the wind and snow swirls outside.

I remain your humble servant- Mr A.

SINK ME! WHAT A FINE DRESS...M'Lady's Day Dress from Bells Mill Clothiers.

When I get a really exciting and new item or find purveyors of fine clothing and accouterments, I like to spread the word. I cannot say enough about two ladies from the frontier of His Majesty's colonies; Bells Mill Clothiers of Kentucky (Lynn and Evie) http://bellsmillclothiers.com/

I must thank my friend the "Good Doctor", for his referral as he is having a suit of clothes made by them, which by all indications will be quite well made indeed. Hmmm...I need a new tailcoat, alas that's for another time...

Anyone who has sewn for me knows A) I'm fairly decent with a needle and thread myself and have been stitching for over 20 years now and B) I look for the period details. As a museumie who frequently looks at extant examples,I am interested in details and how the final product comes together. My opinion is, these two fine ladies make one of the best "off the rack" period regency dresses I have yet seen! The most important thing is the hang and fit of the dress wowed M'lady and M'self!

The little details also show an attention to the period that we have yet to see on other dresses; the puff and placement of the shoulder seams/sleeves, the closures and the gathers at the high waist line are all well executed. All in all we think the new Regency dress is amazing and a great buy at the price!

My only critique is that the print of the fabric is a little busy for the period. BUT, that's a decision I MADE! I plan to buy more items from these two fine ladies in the future.

Unlike many entutsiats of the period of Austen and Wellington, we are representing country folk of the period, the rural upper middle class. So we have opted for fine middle-class day wear instead of evening wear all the time. I can say that Lady Simpson was "much pleased"... I can tell by looking at the site that the other offerings, including their Evening and Ball gowns look well made and attractive. I shall have t raise the rent on my tenants soon so we can invest in some evening wear for Lady Simpson, but not by too much as their prices are very reasonable!

I would recommend to anyone looking for a well made, excellent, and beautiful "off the rack" day dress for their lady or themselves, to not hesitate to contact The "Ladies Graham" at Bells Mill Clothiers!

A SUIT OF THE MOST EXQUISITE CLOTHES, PART I:

OR THE DEVIL IS IN THE HOMEWORK…

Besides clothing colors and fabric composition, and the sewing patterns themselves, there are characteristics that set apart a good period outfit from the typical quality you can buy from a suttler off the rack or get from a chain store pattern. It is true that whether you have detail oriented standards like yours truly, or simply want to have a nice, well fitting, basic suit of clothes there are steps you should take to avoid the many seemingly hidden pitfalls. I am completely aware of my glass observatory and the bucket of cobbles I may inadvertently be tossing about here. This is a journey I have started long ago and I hope you can learn from my errors of the past, some also recent.

PLEASE don’t mistake my intentions here, if you are happy with your togs and you love what you have, by all means stop reading here. BUT, if you want to push yourself over the edge and nearer the chasm of historical realism, then I can help you see what real period clothing has that most vended clothes don’t have. I will also show you how to adjust what you have to enhance it in this next series of posts. I will focus the majority of the following series of posts about Gentleman’s clothes made to these standards.

Yet despite the quality of the components that make up a suit of clothes in and of themselves, the most important component is the pre-sewing research! Studying pictures and extant collections and paying attention to the fit really can make the difference and not hammer your pocketbook. It may cost more in the initial outlay than buying that cheap butterick pattern waistcoat from eBay that immediately gratifies, but ask yourself; “Do I want to spend a little more now and put in the time upfront to get it right? Or do I want to nickel and dime myself to death over the next coming years to improve an outfit I’m not largely happy with?”

Georgian and Regency clothing for the most part, fit the intended wearer well, despite the decade’s specific fashion trends. I have seen so many baggy breeches and gianormous waistcoats, that the spectacular fabrics or the historic patterns are rendered unnoticeable and the superb effort largely buried under wrinkles. Or worst still, cutting corners out of excellent patterns to make a garment that hangs poorly and lacks functionality and details.

It is sincerely hoped here that this information will help the reader make authentic decisions and thoughtful choices when making an outfit for a gentleman’s suit of clothes. A suit consists of small clothes (waistcoat and breeches) and a coat (frock). I will cover other items later like accessories and footwear that accentuate the outfit as a complete mode of dress. Later I will discuss buttons, finishing and care of the suit.

Let’s get started…

Patterns:
By and large all the patterns I have seen have challenges. I am a fan of Janice Ryan patterns and some of the recent Past Patterns uniform coats produced for War of 1812 uniforms. Yet, by and large the current selection of patterns for general small clothes and coats are lacking.

With waistcoats, they lack a close cut and high enough collar for in the case of the Regency era . I have received waistcoats from accomplished tailors and yet the pattern is dreadful with a huge neck opening suitable for a body builder or gorilla.

Breeches are lacking in details such as watch pockets and a tried and true fit. Often the legs are huge and baggy and the length too long in the limbs. The diaper butt affect of the rear seat gathers is sometimes exaggerated to make the pattern more accommodating to different shapes of men, with the excuse of "added mobility".

Coats are also a challenge. They are highly complex for the basic skills of a hobby tailor. They DEFINATELY require fitting for length and fit in the linbs.

Finally, it is my opinion that you cant really get away without handsewing. Some part of all of these garments requires simple handsewing.

SO how does one get around these obstacles? How do I get a garment that truly is of a reproduction quality yet usable? How do you avoid my errors and save money? Here are some pointers I have often had to painfully learn first hand in the last 24 years:

1) RESEARCH: Understand the fashion trends of the period AND the decade you like. Are the cuts of clothes fuller or “spray painted” on? Look at period art and most importantly, the extant garments in books, in person and online. Of equal importance is provenance! Who and where were these clothes worn? What specific fibers are used where the original owners resided and why? Would it be appropriate to don a 1750’s coat with an 1800 waistcoat?

2) FADS: BEWARE! Just because there is a range of popular patterns doesn’t mean that there aren’t subtle changes or even dramatic ones in fashions and tastes of the time. Looking at real clothes in collections and books, it is obvious there are different cuts of clothes based on the extant garments, the tailor’s taste, decade and the region of origin. Commercial patterns frequently pass these subtle changes over.

Also there are trends amongst enthusiasts. I can think of the ones I have fallen victim to. Faulty research or a narrow focus of written accounts, patterns and recollections can lead to a population of “clones” who misrepresent the period or a regional subculture entirely. I can remember a time where I fell (willingly mind you) victim, to a “Frontier” fad where we all ended emulating the author of a series of magazine articles.

He wasn’t entirely incorrect mind you, and he did some excellent ground breaking research improving the frontier reenactor movement. BUT, none of the readership paid much attention to his interpretation of the research and its regionally specific nature. We all ran around for awhile looking like love children of Daniel Day Lewis in the Mohicans film.

Most certainly Hollywood and artistic license come into play here. Movies are inspiring and wonderful, but often misleading! I am a big fan of historic films, but I also know they are simply an “after taste” of how it was (The director’s perception is everything here) as opposed to the full “banquet” of the reality of the time. Having worked on historical documentaries, I can also say that in most cases Hollywood doesn’t care about accuracy!

Period art is of value as well BUT, what is the nature of the paintings theme and genre? Is it allegorical, celebratory, or a simple life portrait? Does the subject typify what other period pictures are showing? What is the social standing of the subject(s)? Are there specific regulations to what they are wearing from a military perspective?

The most important fads to pay attention to are those of the period and yes, even the specific region and decade you are portraying!

3) FIT: Under no circumstances should you assume that period clothing will be comfortable at first. Also never assume that a pattern is well tested and drafted for period correctness.

We live in an age where the tailored suit is becoming rarer all the time. Large chain stores supply us with ready made clothing whenever we desire it. Our suits require minor tailoring and fitting by comparison and fit similar to a sack.

Georgian clothes accentuate different male features than today and they will feel according to these fashion trends and feel often unusual at first. THAT IS COMPLETELY NORMAL! Over time you will learn to appreciate the fit of period clothes.

In the 18th and early 19th Century Milners and Tailors were artisans. They practiced their profession over their lifetimes and they learned that knowledge as apprentices from others who had time in the trade. Their clientele also could only afford limited amounts of clothing. Most people had only a few changes of outer wear with shirts and underpinnings being the most frequently reproduced and expendable items.

To go that extra mile before sewing is to make a mock up from cheap fabric and tailor your clothing to your own body. Most modern sewers make the mistake of thinking that period patterns currently on the market fit, “out of the envelope” your physique. Not so. Just as then, they needed to be tailored to fit.

The biggest thing you can do to make a successful suit of clothes is to take that time to make a mock up and pin and tuck the items to your person. You can also work with a tailor to get a better fit. I would recommend that whatever you do, this has the biggest impact on your look. Take the time and invest the effort into how the final garments will look.

4) DETAILS: I have seen rick-rack and plastic buttons otherwise destroy perfectly wonderful outfits. The simple rule is this “KISS” or “less is more”! “KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID”. When you look at the real garments you will see what I mean. Yes they can have complex details, but mostly fancy embroidery and gold lace are frivolous and unbelievably expensive to produce realistically. It would be better to purchase high quality linen, wool or silk yardage than a crappy synthetic substitute. Actual period garments are simple in compostion and form and that's what truly makes them beautiful. Chain store modern patterns often destroy this facotr of period clothing and the character fo the finished garment along with it.

5) HASTE MAKES WASTE: Take your time and you can save money. The more judicious and scrutinizing of your decisions you can be the better. Cultivate good research habits and relationships with organizations, experts, and suttlers. This includes those sewing for you. Get feedback and find fabricators of quality.

If you sew, don’t wait until the night before to make your outfit. Dedicate time and do the research and mock ups necessary. Also don’t wait to a week before the ball to order something; this will make your tailor/seamstress love you.

6) Age Appropriateness: Think about it, do your parents or grandparents wear that same old suit or coat they had at your High School graduation? I think if most people think about it many would agree that older and younger people wear noticeably different fashions over generations historically. The same is true in the past. Look at period examples and notice the colors and cut of the garments.

Typically older individuals wear darker colors and more conservative fashions. Many times they are outdated in some way in their accessories. In contrast younger generations seem to wear the cutting edge colors and cuts of clothes.

This is important to bear in mind when making your selections.

To conclude most emphatically, before embarking on your “Mr. Knightly” suit, do your homework. Study the details and converse with the knowledgeable for help. Don’t be in a hurry and do the real work before hand!

In the next installment I will discuss waistcoats and their proper look and fit and the breeches of a proper gentleman